Wednesday, September 17, 2008

MAJULI...THE LOSING PARADISE

Majuli world’s biggest riverine Island and a hub of sublime vaisnavite activities dating back to the 16th century days of great vaisnavite exponent “Sankaradeva”of Assam is fast corroding and tethering on the brink of oblivion. The island is dying slow but sure death due to its gnawing up by swirling Brahmaputra.
Far from the busting Jorhat town floating amid mighty river Brahmaputra is the pictureous Island Majuli.From Jorhat, one can easily fetch a bus for Nimatighat, accordingly I along with my co passengers reached Nimatighat just after half an hour journey from Jorhat town. The first thing I notice after reaching the Nimatighat was the vastness of the abysmal Brahmaputra.I soon boarded a steamer, sailing past the wobbling Brahmaputra water leaving behind the only seen mainland Nimatighat approaching the Majuli island. It reminds one of the aces poet Cole ridges “The rhyme of ancient mariner” where the lone mariner sails across en pasant “Water water everywhere, not a single drop to drink”. After 45 to 50 minutes steamer ride, when the steamer was anchored on the Kamalabarighat on the Majuli Island, the evening sun was touching the waves of mighty Brahmaputra River.
With the glimmering sun was seemingly sinking in the sprawling water of the river twittering noise of the birds returning to their nest was a resonates in my ears, as they were returning to their nest, I also started searching for a nest for my stay in the Island. The two main localities which offer hotels and guesthouses in the Island are Garmur and Kamalabari, even some Satras offers guesthouse facilities to the visitors.
The next morning, I decided to visit Satras or gurukuls, which are famous as vaisnava monasteries in Assam and are closely associated with Assamese culture, art, and music. There are altogether 22 Satras in the Island, preserving rare artifacts, manuscripts and most important of all the vibrant culture of the land. The Satras frequently organizes dance, music and drama festivals called Bhavna.
I visited some Satras with historical and spiritual importance among this Aunihati Satra attracted me the most. It is biggest satra in the Island. Established in the year 1653A.D by the great Ahom king Jayadhaja Singha, who treaded the path of vaishnavism in the later part of his life. The Aunihati satra has many branches spread in different parts of Assam. The main idol of Lord Krishna ,placed in the Garva mandir, Sanctum Sanctorum of Aunihati satra was brought from Jagannath shetra in Puri.The satra also has an inbuilt Library, with rare collection of books, which includes “Hastividyarnaba”, Vedas, Puranas, Ramayana, Mahabharata etc written on Sachi, Hingul, and Hetal leaves. The satra also has a unique museum, preserving some rich manuscripts and a copious collection of artifacts some even dates back to the 15th and 16th century. Some of this eye catching artifacts include 200 year old Ivory tooth, a 39 inch paduka (sandal), brass plates, some pitchers, musical instruments and weapons, which reminisces of one about the significance and glorious tales of the Island.
The Island is not inhabitated by a particular sect or tribe, the cultural uniqueness and ethnic diversity of the Island has attracted people from all over the country to settle themselves. Mystical Majuli, the melting pot of diverse ethnic groups has existed for centuries. Various communities such as Assamese, Bengali, Marwari, Mising tribes of Arunachal Pradesh.Assamese tribes such as Deori, kachari, Ahoms and others had made this Island their permanent habitat. The religion being the binding force behind this unity. In an age of communal disharmony and political unrest Majuli sets an example. Religion in other words has always been the raison d, etre.
The idyllic environ with the religious ambience seemed to have lured many a traveller not only of vaisnavite cult but also of other faiths. This mystic Isle, which has been the hub of all vaisnavite rituals and a mosaic of various ethnic communities attracted the attention all over of the world. Caressed by the mighty Brahmaputra, Majuli Island has always been known as the mélange of art, culture and tradition. The vast repertoire of culture has manifested through the centuries of and contributed much to enrich the Assamese culture atlarge. Majuli speaks of the heritage of the bygone era and rare document found here is treasure trove of vaisnavite culture. But the island is fast corroding and eroding by the raucous Brahmaputra.This river becomes violent every year during rainy season only to wreak havoc on the island which is nibbled up by the river every year.
Its not only the erosion of a land, but also fading away of a vibrant culture. It seems as if with the nibbling away of the island soil, treasured culture is also being washed away. Its time to take up adequate measure on war footing.
The very next day, as the resplendent sun ascends from the rippled water emanating dappled rays, it was my turn to bid Majuli adieu. It was a nostalgic sojourn for me and I made a promise to myself, I would be feel great to do at least something for Majuli after returning to my home.

JOYDEEP DAS GUPTA, SAHARA SAMAY

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